Yunnan Kitchen-- 79 Clinton Street, NY

Yunnan Kitchen is a new Chinese spot in the city, introducing the foods of the Yunnan Provinces.  We sit down next to the window on a hard, uncomfortable wooden bench.  Chinese characters are written everywhere, and a fake tiger skin hangs from the wall.  Different from most Chinese restaurants, Yunnan is very modern and sparse.  The menu offers some interesting foods that I would love to try.  First we order the Tofu Ribbon salad, which are mimicking flat noodles.  It has a fiery flavor and a papery texture.  I didn't really enjoy them.  We also try the charred eggplant with sawtooth herb, crushed peanuts, and chilies.  I think this dish is delicious, and with the first bite, it sets my mouth into flames.  The peanuts give a salty and crunchy combination and the sawtooth herb has a powerful, almost bitter flavor.  For the second round we order the marinated pork ribs.  They are distinct from other ribs because they are fried with a dry marinade.  It is so tender, crispy, and flavorful.  I feel like I could have a dozen of these.  The bok choy is very disappointing, bland, no sauce at all.   For our final course, we order the crispy whole shrimp with lime leaf and the Chinese sausage fried rice.  The shrimp is briny and tender, but messy to peel.  I really like the lime leaf because you get a burst of tanginess in your mouth.  Very nice addition.  The rice was chewy and undercooked, the sausage too dry and there wasn't enough of it.  After we pay the check they send out almond cookies, which are delicious, sweet and chewy.  Overall, I give Yunnan kitchen 2 1/2 pineapples.  Sorry!  Won't be back! -tdg